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It's pumpkin season and most anticipated time of the year, not least for all the curries and other comfort food of fall. This Rajasthani stir-fry is one I cook often, and the blend of ginger, chili and palm sugar lends it a lovely flavor harmony. The biryani, meanwhile, is loaded with whole spices, long-grain rice and ghee, which provide enhanced taste to the strata of rice and vegetables.

Squash and Mushroom Biryani

A celebration of curry dishes starts on October 6, so how perfect to celebrate than with a rich, warming, single-pot biryani? If you like, prepare the vegetable curry component in advance and layer everything on the occasion you want to serve.

Prep 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Serves 4

For the squash and mushroom gravy
4 tbsp ghee, or butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, lengthwise slit
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, cleaned and halved
400ml vegetable stock, or use water
Salt, to taste
2 tbsp chopped coriander, for serving

For the rice
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

For the biryani
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, soaked in 3 tbsp warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, to serve

First make the gravy. Melt the clarified butter in a sizable, thick-bottomed pot on a moderate flame, add the cumin seeds, bay and clove spices, and fry for a brief moment. Add the onion slices and cook, frequently turning, for about half an hour, until tender. When the onions start to brown, transfer half of them to a separate dish and set aside (for later use during the layering).

Add the fresh chilies and ginger to the onions in pan, cook for a brief period, then stir in the tomato puree, chili powder, turmeric and coriander powder, and fry for a minute. Reduce to a low heat, blend in the yoghurt and cook for two minutes.

Mix in the squash and mushrooms, stir to coat in the spices, then cook for several minutes. Pour in the stock or water, and season to taste. Heat until boiling, then lower the temperature, cover and simmer for 18-20 minutes, mixing midway to make sure no sticking to the bottom of the pan. Garnish with coriander, then take off the heat.

Preheat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Wash the basmati, then place it in a saucepan with a litre of water and the bay, cardamom and salt. Bring to a boil, simmer for around ten minutes, until three-quarters cooked, then strain.

For assembling the layered dish, place a tablespoon of melted ghee in a casserole pot for which you have a tight-fitting lid. Ladle in one portion the vegetable curry, then top that with some the cooked grains. Sprinkle half the saffron water, ginger strips, mint, cardamom powder and spice blend, then add the caramelized onions. Top with the rest of vegetable curry, then spoon on the leftover grains. Top with the remaining clarified butter, saffron water, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and spice mix.

Seal with baking paper, place lid securely, then bake on the middle shelf of the oven for about fifteen minutes, so the aromas soak into the rice. Remove of the oven, leave to rest, still covered, for several minutes, then lift off the lid and present with raita and fresh salad.

Traditional Indian Achari Kaddu (Squash with Pickling Spices Sauté)

The Indian word "pickling style" refers to flavouring a dish using preserving spices, and the combination includes mustard seeds, fennel, fenugreek seeds, cumin, hing and nigella, but they're not used only in pickles. This mixture also features in various types of curries and stir-fries, such as this one.

Preparation 10 min
Cooking 30 min
Yields 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
750g squash flesh, or use pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard, fenugreek seeds and fennel in a mortar, roughly grind, then set aside. Heat the oil in a large frying pan or Indian wok on a medium heat. Add the crushed spices and the hing, and fry, mixing, for a brief moment. Add the chopped ginger, cook for a minute, then stir in the squash, chili powder and turmeric, and sauté, stirring, for five minutes more.

Pour a small amount water to the pot, season with salt to taste and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat, and leave to cook for about twenty minutes, mixing midway through. Mix in the palm sugar, crushing some of the pieces a little, then incorporate the mango powder, stir well and present hot with chapatis or leavened bread.